Early in 2007, Chef John Besh effectively doubled the size of his restaurant family by acquiring the venerable La Provence from his celebrated mentor, and opening Lüke, a long-held dream that revives the Franco-Greman brasserie as a New Orleans institution.  These, of course, join August–twice on Gourmet Magazine’s list of Best Restaurants–and Besh Steak, the chef’s playful interpretation of the all-American steakhouse with a nod to New Orleans cuisine.

How does he do it?  And why?  For all his accomplishments and honors, not even the current holder of the James Beard Award for Best Chef, Southeast can claim to be in four places at once – nor does he try:  “This might seem like a rush of expansion right now, but the timing is right, and the opportunities are blessings” he explains.  “My goal is not to grow an enormous machine of a business – this is not a chain – but to secure and preserve our city’s food culture.  Each of these restaurants represents a particular culinary passion of mine.”

Besh and his business partner Octavio Mantilla have assembled and nurtured a team of talented chefs, longtime family friends, and hospitality professionals who are empowered to run each restaurant.  Besh remains the expert voice, and continues at the helm in the kitchen of August, his first of the four, and arguably his flagship restaurant.  As each of his chefs is invested as a partner in his respective restaurant, Besh points out, these chefs are building a real future stake for their families and children, as well as for the culinary life of the city.  

“La Provence has been legendary for decades in this part of the world,” says Besh, “and August and Besh Steak are clearly showing that they have real value not just to the New Orleans community, but to the greater culinary world.  I have long wanted to bring back from extinction the great old brasseries that used to thrive in New Orleans, and Lüke is that labor of love.  My hope, and my plan, is that each of these restaurants will become, independently and indelibly, part of our food culture here – something our children will cherish.”