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Bullfrog Hunting in Swampy Louisiana
Chefs Take the Plunge for a Summer Delicacy
Here’s a culinary
story that may seem unlikely – but it’s no bull… just bullfrogging!
Summer
late-nights will find a dedicated group of friends, mostly New Orleans culinary
professionals bound by their love of food, in the swamp at a fishing camp,
holding nets aloft. They’re focused, they’re intent, and they’re after frogs.
Bullfrogs, their
legs in particular, are a much sought-after summer delicacy in the deep south,
and these gentlemen go to great lengths to procure them. John Besh, Executive
Chef of the highly acclaimed restaurant, August, and Besh Steak, Melvin Rodrigue,
General Manager of Galatoire’s, Justin Frey, descendant of the founder of
Galatoire’s and ambassador at large for the landmark restaurant, Harlon Pearce,
owner of a North Shore family lumber business, and Greg Reggio of Tastebuds,
owner of the casual pasta restaurants known as Semolina, all hunt and fish
together throughout the year. But come summertime, they get together at least
every other week, and head out to Plaquemine’s Parish to Reggio’s fishing camp –
for the frogs.
By about 9p.m.,
they’ll be poised in pirogues or flatboats, nets in hand. Before long, the
camaraderie of the night’s challenge sets in, and after a few Abita Beers,
Maker’s Marks, or the spirit of choice is consumed, Louisiana style, it’s not
just the frogs that are jumping, but the hunters too – jumping out of the boats
to catch the frogs by hand. Nets are tossed and the guys toss themselves into
the swamp, usually with great success. Generally they catch about 25 frogs
each, some of which get sautéed up and devoured on the spot; surplus go back to
the restaurant with Besh to appear as specials in the following days.
It’s not just the
ladies out there kissing lots of frogs – these guys chase them with a
vengeance.
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