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Bullfrog Hunting in Swampy Louisiana
Chefs Take the Plunge for a Summer Delicacy

 

Here’s a culinary story that may seem unlikely – but it’s no bull… just bullfrogging!

Summer late-nights will find a dedicated group of friends, mostly New Orleans culinary professionals bound by their love of food, in the swamp at a fishing camp, holding nets aloft.  They’re focused, they’re intent, and they’re after frogs. 

Bullfrogs, their legs in particular, are a much sought-after summer delicacy in the deep south, and these gentlemen go to great lengths to procure them.  John Besh, Executive Chef of the highly acclaimed restaurant, August, and Besh Steak, Melvin Rodrigue, General Manager of Galatoire’s, Justin Frey, descendant of the founder of Galatoire’s and ambassador at large for the landmark restaurant, Harlon Pearce, owner of a North Shore family lumber business, and Greg Reggio of Tastebuds, owner of the casual pasta restaurants known as Semolina, all hunt and fish together throughout the year.  But come summertime, they get together at least every other week, and head out to Plaquemine’s Parish to Reggio’s fishing camp – for the frogs. 

By about 9p.m., they’ll be poised in pirogues or flatboats, nets in hand.  Before long, the camaraderie of the night’s challenge sets in, and after a few Abita Beers, Maker’s Marks, or the spirit of choice is consumed, Louisiana style, it’s not just the frogs that are jumping, but the hunters too – jumping out of the boats to catch the frogs by hand.  Nets are tossed and the guys toss themselves into the swamp, usually with great success.  Generally they catch about 25 frogs each, some of which get sautéed up and devoured on the spot; surplus go back to the restaurant with Besh to appear as specials in the following days. 

It’s not just the ladies out there kissing lots of frogs – these guys chase them with a vengeance.     



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