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Octavio Mantilla
Destiny Fulfilled
Octavio
Mantilla landed in the restaurant business the way many young people do, on the
ground floor, earning extra money for college. Born in Nicaragua, he moved to
New Orleans as a child, and readily embraced the city’s rich gastronomic
culture. At sixteen, he got his first job as a dishwasher, and worked his way
up the ladder as a bus-person, server, maitre d’, and on through all the
managerial levels. Along the way, he earned a degree in computer science at
Tulane University; upon graduation, his hard-won computer job kept him behind a
desk and away from other people, and he found that he much preferred his evening
job as manager of a restaurant. Nevertheless, he went back to school and earned
an MBA from the University of New Orleans.
His first big
job with a finance company was no better; Octavio is a social creature and a
problem solver, whose chief pleasure comes from making other people happy. He
finally realized that his studies did not begin to match his passion for food,
wine, and fine dining, and he decided to stop fighting what felt like his true
calling. As he puts it, “I get to live in an industry that people pay lots of
money just to visit on occasion – how lucky is that?” Octavio’s own culinary
tastes are well rounded, and he enjoys a wide range of cuisines. These days, he
is especially fond of Vietnamese food. “I love their cold coffees,” he says,
“and their whole fish dishes remind me of the way we ate fish when I was younger
– the Nicaraguan way.”
After a brief
but intense period of working together at one of New Orleans’ top restaurants, a
young John Besh predicted to Octavio Mantilla, “one day we are going to be in
business together.” The two had overlapped only three months, John in the
kitchen and Octavio at the front of the house as general manager, but they had
recognized in each other a common passion for restaurant excellence, and become
fast friends.
With his
business skills and extensive restaurant management experience, Octavio was
moving on to the world of casino hospitality. At Harrah’s Casino & Hotel, he
was first part of the team that opened the company’s casino in New Orleans; then
he moved on to St. Louis as Harrah’s Director of Food Operations, in charge of
seven restaurants on the casino property. He also opened numerous fine dining
restaurants for Harrah’s nationwide, and when he heard that the company was
going to launch its first high-profile restaurant showcasing a celebrity chef,
he was interested. Even better, it would be at the New Orleans casino, and
Octavio was ready to return home. He called the president of Harrah’s and
presented himself as the best man for the job. Imagine his surprise when he
learned that none other than his old friend John Besh was to be the celebrity
chef in question! As Octavio had been moving ahead in his own career, indeed so
had John, rising to celebrity status as a chef. “Sure enough, John was just the
star they were looking for,” Octavio says, “but because ‘I knew him when,’ it
was a shock to hear that my old buddy was their big celebrity!”
And so Octavio
went home to New Orleans to be reunited with his old friend at Besh Steak, a
critical and popular success all around. In early 2005, when Besh had the
opportunity to buy Restaurant August from its owner, his first instinct was to
turn to Octavio. Twelve long years ago, when John Besh predicted that they
would be in business together, he may not have imagined the full measure of his
words. “We get along like brothers,” says Octavio, who can’t believe his good
fortune. Octavio joins John as a partner in The Besh Restaurant Group, running
Restaurant August; Besh Steak; the legendary La Provence in Lacombe, which they
bought from John’s mentor; and their latest venture, Lüke, a revival of the
great New Orleans brasserie tradition. Not only are the two professionally
entwined now, Octavio is also godfather to John’s youngest son, who is the same
age as his own daughter. They still share the same passion, John in the kitchen
and Octavio out among the diners, and between the two of them, they are one
dynamic dining duo. Together again, they appear to have fulfilled their
professional destiny.
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