|
|
|
It's All in a Day's Catch
Catch Restaurant and Catch at The Terrace
Chris Parsons can’t remember a day in
his life when he wasn’t fishing, thinking about fishing, cooking fresh fish, or
enjoying freshly caught fish prepared by his mother, Peggy, or someone else in
his close-knit family and circle of friends. At one, he was bundled onto his
father Jeff’s back and taken on his first fly-fishing trip. Chris’s grandfather
learned to fish from his father, and he passed this passion and skill down to
his grandchild, teaching him to tie flies and tickle trout in the streams of
Pennsylvania and New Hampshire. The fishing lessons continued on Cape Cod, where
the family summered and Chris learned to catch bluefish and striped bass and to
dig for clams.
Whenever Chris takes a fly out of his
great-grandfather’s fly box just for a glimpse, he is pulled back through time
to the Sundays his family spent with friends on the banks of Pennsylvania
streams. In a ritual that began in the early-nineteen-hundreds, the men and boys
would fly-fish while the women chatted and crocheted and the girls played along
the water’s edge. When it was time for the men to return with their catch, the
women prepared a fire. Before long, they were grilling freshly caught fish over
smoldering flames. These outings taught Chris the unbeatable pleasure of eating
simply prepared fresh fish in a relaxed atmosphere with family and friends.
There were many more lessons Chris
learned as the son of a fly-fisherman and a farmer’s daughter. His quiet but
spirited mother was one of six children raised on a small family farm in
Pennsylvania. Quite literally living off the land, Chris’s mother knew no other
way of cooking than to use whatever was available and of the day. Long before
the words “seasonal, regional produce” became trendy, this young woman, who grew
up with no indoor plumbing and an outdoor privy, was cooking meals that
celebrated the pure flavor, color, and textures of fresh herbs, vegetables, and
fruits. Once she married, Peggy continued this tradition, buying from local
farmers, and cooking just-caught fish her son, husband, and father-in-law
brought home.
During Cape Cod summers when bluefish
is plentiful, Peggy wrapped it in tinfoil with onions, salt and pepper, and a
splash of beer, then steamed it over a fire. The family also enjoyed gathering
shellfish along the rocky shore. Peggy and Jeff assembled the fruits of these
expeditions in uncomplicated clambakes featuring homegrown herbs wrapped in
cheese-cloth, potatoes, corn, and frozen breakfast sausage links, which Chris
still finds hard to admit as the secret to the recipe’s success.
Dishes like these taught Chris to
respect the products with which he cooks —where they came from, how they were
caught, and how they were prepared. He learned that this respect is
essential to cooking meals that are both bold and delicate in flavor. The
philosophy that infuses Chris’s approach to cuisine is that the sense of taste
connects the diner to the ingredients and how they have been gathered and
prepared.
Young Chris’s appreciation for flavor
took on a more sophisticated air when he began spending time with Elio, a family
friend whose approach to food reflected his Italian heritage. The son of a
family who made wine and ran a restaurant in a small town outside of Rome, Elio
prepared his own prosciutto, coppacolas, soprassata, and
dry-cured sausage, aging them in his wine cellar. When Chris, as a young boy,
approached Elio’s house, the rich scent of osso bucco braising on the
stove or garlic and herbs sautéing in olive oil teased his nose. Before long, he
found himself sitting in Elio’s kitchen, learning new recipes and helping out.
Whether gathering herbs in Elio’s
garden or homemade sausages hanging from hooks in the cellar’s ceiling, Chris
learned more about using straight-forward ingredients to create flavor-packed,
satisfying dishes. Elio was always excited about discovering new ways to prepare
the next simple, but gourmet meal, whether Frutta de Mare, a seafood salad with
extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice and garlic, or Ricotta Gnocchi with Porcini
Cream Sauce. A larger-than-life lover of food—he passed that sense of excitement
on to Chris. Some of the most wonderful experiences occurred once Chris became
of age and could share glasses of wine, recipes, and stories with Elio in his
cellar. If only those wine racks could tell tales!
When it came time to choose a
profession, Chris quite naturally decided to take the culinary path. Pursuing a
degree in culinary arts at Johnson and Wales University in Providence, Rhode
Island and Charleston, South Carolina, Chris still found time to throw a line
into ocean waters. For the next twelve years, Chris worked his way up the
culinary ladder, beginning in Colorado, a sportsman’s paradise that had long
occupied his dreams. The highlight of four years there included a stint as Fish
Chef at the four-star Flagstaff House in Boulder. Back in New England, Chris
served as a line cook at Rialto, a four-star restaurant in Cambridge
specializing in Mediterranean food. Here, Chris reconnected with the informal
education in Italian cuisine that began Elio’s house.
Three years as sous-chef in
three-star New York City restaurants, Arizona 206 and Cena (alongside acclaimed
Chef Normand Laprise), helped hone Chris’s skills and helped prepare him to
participate in The Bocuse d’Or competition. Drawing on happy memories of family
meals prepared at home, he asked his father to serve as his assistant and won a
coveted place as one of eight semi-finalists out of hundreds of participants.
Not winning the top prize did not disappoint Chris at all. He recognized that he
was young and had a lot to learn. But he now realized he had talent that would
soon be noticed again.
This experience gave Chris the
courage to return to Massachusetts, where he became the chef de cuisine for the
opening a new restaurant, Pravda, then co-founder and head chef of Boston’s
Flour Bakery and Café, and finally chef and owner of his first restaurant:
Catch Restaurant. An upscale seafood restaurant that brings of all Chris’s
memories, passions, and talents to the table, Catch Restaurant won Best
New Restaurant and Best Seafood Restaurant from Boston Magazine in
its first three years, Wine Spectator Award for three consecutive years,
Best Seafood Restaurant from New England Travel & Life Magazine in 2006,
and three stars from The Boston Herald. Clearly Catch Restaurant
is a stellar success.
After three years-and-a-half years,
Chris was ready for a new challenge and opened Catch at The Terrace in Edgartown
on Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts. Located in a Relais & Châteaux property,
The Charlotte Inn, the restaurant is just a short stroll from the Atlantic
Ocean. Catch at The Terrace offers a prix-fixe market menu that changes
frequently, based upon each day’s offerings from Chris’s extensive network of
fisherman, oyster farms, and farmers. His philosophy that food connects the
diner with the producers and the local elements of sea, earth, and sky is
obvious from his menus where the producers are given full credit: Ted Dobson’s
Mixed Baby Lettuce, Lenny B’s Smoked Trout, and Sweet Neck Farm Oysters.
The idea of pairing products that add subtle undertones of flavor, color, and
texture to featured ingredients like Maine Scallops, Roasted Cod, or Native
Black Bass, is the menu’s essence. Tasty elements such as prosciutto,
gnocchi, and fava beans reflect Elio’s influence, while unpretentious
vegetables like Old Town Farm potatoes, rainbow chard, rhubarb, and beets are
reminders of Peggy. Haute cuisine details like American Sturgeon caviar, truffle
oil, and verjus reductions make appearances on the menu, reflecting Chris’s
training and adding flavorful high-notes. But just as often, preparations
feature humble ingredients like toasted pumpkin seeds, dried fruit, fiddleheads,
and ramps.
Perpetuating the tradition of cooking
as a family activity, Chris’s two children, Lily and Timmy, and his wife Megan,
join him in the kitchen at four-o’clock to watch him prepare dishes that will
star in the restaurant that night. Both restaurants are close to the Parsons’
homes, a cozy winter residence in Winchester and a summer home in Edgartown.
Catch at The Terrace is also so close to the Atlantic that fishing rods
stand by the door, handy for a spontaneous dash to the shore for some ‘catch and
release’ fun. Already a fishing aficionado, Lily (soon be followed by baby
brother Timmy) is trying in every way to bring home the fish.
This is the circle of life that Chris
celebrates in his restaurants. When he was growing up, mealtime was a special
time set apart from busy interruptions to respect family and food. The
television was turned off and the telephone ignored. At Catch at The Terrace,
diners may not know quite why, but they are likely to feel the same special
warmth of the heart that Chris’s family feels when they sit down in good company
to enjoy delicious, simple, fresh food...predominately fish, of course.
|