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Where the Wild Things Are
Martha’s Vineyard is where the wild things are from July to January, and
Chris Parsons, owner/chef of Catch at The Terrace in Edgartown,
Massachusetts, knows just where to ‘catch’ them… if he can! Beach
Plums - not much larger than rose hips, grow wild and ripen in August and
September. Islanders keep a close eye on harvest time, as they scoop them up so
fast to make their seasonal jams, preserves, and flavored syrups. Known for his
innovative interpretations of classic New England (and Mediterranean) fare,
Parsons serves these sweet-and-tart fruits in delicious late-summer
preparations. September’s warm days and cool nights also make it the best month
for the Vineyard’s homegrown heirloom tomatoes, including
Peach Tomato,
Brandywine, Yellow Taxi, and Hillbilly
varieties, which Parsons serves in
everything from bright salads to flavorful reductions. The tomatoes are most
unique as they grow later there than most around the country.
If
it’s ocean fish and shellfish you’re after, something wild is always in season
in the island’s waters. August is the month when sport fisherman brave the seas
to hook wild tuna. In September and October, the fall migrations
begin and striped bass, bluefish, and bonito swarm past the
island. The descendent of a long line of fishing enthusiasts, Parsons grew up
catching (and cooking) these very fish, which is why he knows how to handle them
with just the right touch. When the water gets chillier, the shellfish get
sweeter, and members of the Wampanoag tribe—the Vineyards’ first
inhabitants—harvest Nantucket Bay and Vineyard scallops. While the idea
of wading in the island’s frigid waters in November and December may seem
daunting, the Wampanoags know that the incomparable taste of these delicate
fruits-de-mer will make it completely worth their “wild.”
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