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The Latin List
In February 2003, the owners of DC
Coast and TenPenh (Executive Chef Jeff Tunks, Gus DiMillo, and David Wizenberg)
traveled extensively in Mexico and Brazil to do a little research for their new
venture, Ceiba. As you will remember from their trip to Asia before
opening TenPenh, the goal on these research trips is to seek out the most
authentic dishes and accessories for the restaurant to provide an atmosphere
that will enhance the overall dining experience. In addition to sampling and
learning to prepare many local dishes, they also bought dishes—literally!
Perhaps a variation of these dishes is found in some authentic ethnic eateries
in this country, but not in any contemporary Latin American restaurants that I
know of—all I see in my research (for example, Ola, Café Atlantico in DC) is the
typical contemporary long, white plates that you see in any high-end restaurant
these days. Here are a few of the specialty items that were purchased for
Ceiba:
- In
Salvador, the capital of Bahia in northern Brazil, moqueta—a
casserole of seafood, tomatoes, onions, peppers, coconut milk, and palm
oil—is the regional dish. At a local ceramic factory, oval moqueta
dishes were chosen for Ceiba, as well as traditional platters on
which will be served the whole fish Vera Cruz style and the Caribbean
lobster. Small bowls for rice, beans, and condiments were also purchased The
Ceiba order was the largest the factory had ever received, with well
over 1,000 dishes purchased.
- In the
dessert department, an authentic churrera was ordered from Spain to
make the Latin American version of a doughnut, churros, served warm
and filled with chocolate, condensed milk, or cajeta made from
caramelized sugar and goat’s milk. The machine clamps onto the counter next
to the fryer. The churros batter is poured into the machine, a crank
is turned, and perfectly shaped and cut balls of dough pop down into the
fryer.
- Ceiba’s
mojito is certainly the most authentic in town, as bartenders use a
sugar cane press from Miami to make the liquid that is the base of a
mojito. The liquid, which is sold in Brazil as a shot, is also used in
the sweet and sour mixes for other specialty drinks (margaritas, signature
cocktails); Tunks may use it in marinades, and it will certainly show up in
desserts.
- From
Argentina came authentic parilla, cast iron grill pans that fit into
a wooden base for tableside service of grilled meats. These are individual
pans with handles, deeper than those used for fajitas at many Mexican
restaurants, and with the ridges of a grill pan as opposed to a flat
skillet.
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