The Secrets in the Sauce at TenPenh
The Contemporary Asian-Pacific
Cuisine at TenPenh draws on the flavors of Vietnam, Thailand, Hong Kong, the
Philippines, and Japan. A few food finds and ideas listed below are not found in
many restaurants, if at all.
1. There are five choices of soy
sauce offered: Mushroom, Tamari, Indonesian, light, and soy itself. Specific
tastes to go along with a particular dish.
2. From China Bay Restaurant in Washington, D.C.’s
Chinatown, Jeff Tunks has fresh rice noodles prepared for him daily and
delivered to the restaurant.
3. Tunks has a purveyor in Japan
send kasu (sediment from the process of making sake) to his local seafood
purveyor. He uses this to flavor the Kasu-Marinated Seabass with Sesame Ocean
Salad and Tobiko Butter.
4. Tunks serves only fresh
wasabi, which he buys directly from a Japanese purveyor.
5. Tunks also orders organic
yuzu from Japan, which is the juice of a Japanese citrus and the base for
the TenPenh salad dressing.
6. For an amus- bouche
at lunch, Tunks serves edamame, the salted green soy beans that come steamed in
their shells. At dinner, he serves a “shooter” of soup in a custom-made shooter
glass. The soups change seasonally; in the summertime, it is a Thai Gazpacho,
the classic cold tomato and cucumber soup enhanced with coconut milk, ginger,
garlic, cilantro, and a touch of spicy saracha sauce; when the weather
turns cooler, the shooter becomes a Japanese Squash Soup with Kaffir Lime oil.
7. An unusual but popular
garnish to the thick steaks of swordfish served at TenPenh? A “teepee” of
julienned strips of deep-fried bacon. The salty side is the perfect foil for
the meaty fish.
8. A unique dessert offering is
the dramatic Asian tea-wheel, a striking wooden circle that stands on the table
bearing a selection of Asian-influenced Petit Fours— tangerine marshmallows;
ginger orange cookies; mandarin fruit jellies; coconut shortbread; macaroons;
dark-chocolate covered cashews; and a pistachio and dried fruit nougat.
9. The restaurant’s site has an infamous past. It has
been said that some thirty-five years ago the “Rat Pack Boys” (Frank Sinatra and
the gang) used to frequent that same corner, Tenth and Pennsylvania, which was
the Diner of its day. Owners Gus DiMillo, David Wizenberg, and Jeff Tunks came
up with the name TenPenh before discovering that the contractor, Forrester, had
family ties to that same spot, and that Mr. Forrester’s uncle owned the
restaurant—named Tenth and Penn—in the late 1960s.
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